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2 August 09
Wars of Past, Not Present, Inspire Fashion
From The Associated Press:
The fashion legacy of World War I includes trench coats and shorter skirts. World War II popularized sportswear, strong shoulders and nipped waists. Vietnam inspired protest-driven Army green and fatigues.
Wartime has heralded strong periods of American style, yet the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq seem to be barely a blip on the radar of the fashion community. There’s been an uptick in camouflage prints and, a few seasons back, a mini boom of the kind of epaulettes typical of military jackets — but those styles were around before the current conflicts, and they’ll probably circle back again when they are resolved.
These wars, which began in 2001 and 2003, respectively, “have not been impactful,” at least not in obvious ways, says Kathleen Campbell, a fashion historian affiliated with the Goldstein Museum of Design at the University of Minnesota. That minimal effect might be because they are not global wars dominating the conversation in the same sense as the World Wars, nor have there been huge public protests even if they’re considered unpopular by some.
However, she adds, when history judges this period with a long-view perspective, an influence — possibly the use of scarves and/or layers like the ones used in those regions to protect against weather extremes — might emerge. “I think we’re too close to analyze the effects now. It’s much easier to see in retrospect.”
There was no such time lag, though, during World War II, which changed the way Americans dressed forever.
The article points to both the rationing of materials and a desire to display patriotism during WWII as factors in its concurrent reflections in popular style, but I think that the difference in how news and information was disseminated back then played a large role as well. 
Both World Wars had a outpouring of support from the general public that was perpetuated by the then media. Nowadays opposition to war is as readily voiced as support, and we are unable to romanticize our current conflicts like our past ones, which even through the lens and distance of history seems more clear cut and morally unambiguous.
Photo credit: Associated Press

Wars of Past, Not Present, Inspire Fashion

From The Associated Press:

The fashion legacy of World War I includes trench coats and shorter skirts. World War II popularized sportswear, strong shoulders and nipped waists. Vietnam inspired protest-driven Army green and fatigues.

Wartime has heralded strong periods of American style, yet the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq seem to be barely a blip on the radar of the fashion community. There’s been an uptick in camouflage prints and, a few seasons back, a mini boom of the kind of epaulettes typical of military jackets — but those styles were around before the current conflicts, and they’ll probably circle back again when they are resolved.

These wars, which began in 2001 and 2003, respectively, “have not been impactful,” at least not in obvious ways, says Kathleen Campbell, a fashion historian affiliated with the Goldstein Museum of Design at the University of Minnesota. That minimal effect might be because they are not global wars dominating the conversation in the same sense as the World Wars, nor have there been huge public protests even if they’re considered unpopular by some.

However, she adds, when history judges this period with a long-view perspective, an influence — possibly the use of scarves and/or layers like the ones used in those regions to protect against weather extremes — might emerge. “I think we’re too close to analyze the effects now. It’s much easier to see in retrospect.”

There was no such time lag, though, during World War II, which changed the way Americans dressed forever.

The article points to both the rationing of materials and a desire to display patriotism during WWII as factors in its concurrent reflections in popular style, but I think that the difference in how news and information was disseminated back then played a large role as well.

Both World Wars had a outpouring of support from the general public that was perpetuated by the then media. Nowadays opposition to war is as readily voiced as support, and we are unable to romanticize our current conflicts like our past ones, which even through the lens and distance of history seems more clear cut and morally unambiguous.

Photo credit: Associated Press

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9 July 09
Insert Caption Here ______
A model wears one of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2009 Couture creations in Paris. 
Photo credit: Style.com

Insert Caption Here ______

A model wears one of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2009 Couture creations in Paris.

Photo credit: Style.com

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8 May 09

Designer of the Week: Eley Kishimoto

Eley Kishimoto refer to themselves as “surface decorators,” but to many in the fashion world, they are also the “patron saints of print.” Formed in the early 90s by Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto, the line enjoyed partnerships with major design houses like Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, and Jil Sander before launching their own womenswear collection in the mid-90s.

Eye It: Spring 2009 RTW































































All Spring 2009 RTW runway photos: Style.com

Buy It: Eley Kishimoto Online





Pumps in Black/White/Yellow$173.65 (orig. $332)













Scalloped Sundress $374














Peter Pan Dress £362/~$546

















Silk Frill Trim Top $274












Mary Jane Pumps $166.75 (orig. $319)













Felt Rabbit Coat £338/~$509 (orig. £675/~$1017)














Bunny Dance Top £100/~$150 (orig. £200/~$301)

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29 April 09

Can Kate Moss Make “Fat” Fashionable?

From The Huffington Post:

In case you missed it, “fat” is experiencing a resurgence in the beauty world as evidenced by recent photos of Kate Moss where she sports some extra weight in the form of actual breasts and hips - the latter only if caught in the right light. Of course everyone cried pregnancy first but Moss has denied all fertility rumors, instead saying she’s just getting “fat.”

Fashionistas are declaring Moss’ unapologetic weight gain a coup for the healthy-girl crowd by stamping out skinny minnies everywhere. Of course anyone who has picked up a magazine, watched TV or surfed the Internet lately realizes how ludicrous that sounds. Almost as ludicrous as calling Kate Moss “fat.”

The Times adds that since Moss is such a trendsetter, her 10 pounds mean renewed acceptability of older but “curvier” models like Linda Evangelista and Cindy Crawford. Not famous women may have to just hope for the trickle down effect.

”[…]that wearying daily analysis of jutting celebrity pelvises and matchstick arms. Crazy as it seems, only a few months ago, Madonna’s sinewy calves or Victoria Beckham’s angular collarbones seemed like bona-fide dinner-party conversation-starters. Now that we have some actual problems, debating some neurotic x-ray’s eating habits seems pointless, to say nothing of panicking about our own bodies. Clearly we had too little to worry about if “Is it gluten-free?” or “Should I eat carbs after 6pm?” were troubling questions. Who cares? Malnourished women aren’t interesting any more. They’re depressing. And the six-pack, once evidence of having luxurious amounts of time and money to devote to self-sculpture, now looks like a feeble attempt at control in an uncertain world. Even worse, it implies a desperately high level of self-involvement. Fat people, meanwhile, look better every day. Why? Because they look carefree. So heave a sigh of relief and let your gut out. Kate Moss might be “fat”, but it turns out she’s bang on trend, as ever. “

It’s redundant to say that celebrity, and by extension, fashion, play a large role in the general consciousness of body image. I do firmly believe that the public as consumers drive that power of celebrity more than they realize or care to admit. If you break it down to the most basic and crass elements, here it is: if consumers simply stopped buying a particular product or size altogether, retailers would eventually stop carrying it, and designers would in turn stop producing it (much in the way that if the public stopped seeing a certain celebrity’s movies or buying their magazines, that celebrity would almost certainly cease to exist as such).

It will be very interesting to see how the recession plays into ideas on body image, since I’ve always thought that what constitutes an attractive figure is more about displaying wealth than anything else. Back in the day, being fat made you attractive because it meant that you were able to afford to eat in a habitual and lavish manner. More recently, being thin made an individual attractive because it meant that they could afford to be on some crazy fad diet, have a personal trainer, and get frequent cosmetic surgery.

As obvious affluence is becoming gauche in the current economic climate, how will that affect what we deem to be attractive?


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26 April 09

Remnants


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23 April 09

Designer of the Week: Malene Birger

Having already established the label Day Birger et Mikkelsen in 1997, Malene Birger launched her eponymous line By Malene Birger in 2003. Birger is already fashion royalty in Denmark, a fact that has been cemented not only by her considerable amount of design awards and celebrity press, but also with Danish First Lady Anne-Mette Rasmussen’s recent choice of Birger’s Justinas coat for the much anticipated NATO concert.

Eye It: Spring/Summer 2009 RTW






































































































All Spring/Summer 2009 RTW photos: Vogue UK

Buy It: By Malene Birger Online








Justinas Jacket $648

















Vardah Bubble Hem Dress $186.50 (orig. $373)












Gibtan Necklace $135

















Arella Lace Dress $468

















Filomenia Dress $297 (orig. $495)














Gala Headband $78.50 (orig. $157)












Gaun Lady Top $190.50

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2 April 09

Designer of the Week: Sari Gueron

Sari Gueron, a self-declared tomboy who grew up with two brothers, “seeks to reinvent womenswear” by focusing on attention to details and figure-flattering shapes.

Eye It: Spring 2009




























































All Spring 2009 photos: Sari Gueron

Buy It: Sari Gueron Online










Kimono Sleeve Shirt Dress with Leather Belt $795














Backless Halter Dress with Bow $1195















Ruffle Neck Long Sleeve Lace Shirt $298.50 (orig. $995)















Feather Dress $200
















Layered Shirt Dress $49.99
















Belted Silk Mini Dress $399

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25 March 09

Robot Model Debuts at Tokyo Fashion Week

Uh oh…a model who doesn’t need two grapes a day to survive? From The Daily Telegraph:

She may be able to flash a smile, lower her eyelids and sashay along a catwalk unflustered by the crowds of camera-toting photographers. But this is no ordinary supermodel.

Her silver and black frame may have been significantly less stylish than the more fashionable ensembles being displayed by real life models throughout the event.

However, the £1.37m HRP-4C humanoid was able to imitate the expressions, gait and poses of a supermodel due to battery-powered motors in her body and face.

Measuring a slightly short 5 ft 2 inches and weighing a model like 43 kg, the features of the robot were modelled on the wide-eyed characters popular in Japanese “anime” cartoons.

However, despite her apparent physical perfections, its creators at National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology (AIST) admitted that it had a long way to go before it would rival real life models.

“Our robot can’t move elegantly like the real models that are here today,” said Shuji Kajita, director of humanoid robot engineering AIST.

“It will take another 20 to 30 years of research to make that happen.”

20-30 years to get a decent strut? Yeesh. I don’t think Gisele or Agyness have anything to worry about (other than, you know, the latest throng of 15 year olds from the Siberian Steppes).


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Posted: 9:46 AM

Remnants


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5 March 09

Remnants


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