From The New York Times:
Fashion houses are not yet in quite the same pickle as banks, though you might not know it for all the bailout plans in the works from American designers.
This week, signs went up in the windows of a vacant storefront in the Port Authority Bus Terminal on Eighth Avenue imploring passers-by to “Save Fashion.” It’s a teaser for a pop-up shop, supported by several city agencies and organized by Refinery29, the fashion Web site. It will open May 1 and, for one month, offer a rotating assortment of fashion at prices at least 50 percent off.
Philippe von Borries, the founder of Refinery29, said the idea was to create a stylish environment where struggling designers could sell overstock and be seen by a wider audience. (The store will include items from Catherine Holstein, Rachel Comey and Sue Stemp, among others.)
On Tuesday, a group of designers, including Philip Crangi, Justin Giunta and Malia Mills, met with the Council of Fashion Designers of America to propose a “declaration of designers.” Stung by steep markdowns imposed by retailers, they are creating a white paper of sorts for dealing with the economic climate and a strength in numbers response to the stores.
Then, on Wednesday, another group flew to Washington to reintroduce an anti-piracy bill to stop mass merchants from knocking off their ideas. That the group included Narciso Rodriguez, Maria Cornejo, Jason Wu and Thakoon Panichgul — all favorites of Michelle Obama — was no coincidence.
“These designers are celebrities in Washington,” said Steven Kolb, the council’s executive director. “People are going to be lining up with their digital cameras to photograph them.”
Cynthia Rowley beat them to town. Last month, she proposed to Desirée Rogers, the White House social secretary, the fashion equivalent of an organic garden on the lawn. Ms. Rowley, who recently moved some of her designs to domestic factories, wants to see apparel production return to the United States. Her idea is to teach the craft of fashion — how a T-shirt came to be from a cotton plant, for example — as part of home-economics courses.
This article ties into the WSJ piece on designers rethinking discounts. As far as the business end of the fashion industry goes, designers are at once on the top and bottom of the food chain: while their creative output drives the industry, in this kind of down economy they tend to be the ones who suffer the most financially. The most viable solution for their survival may be wresting control of the section(s) of their business that they formerly ceded to retailers.
I also wholeheartedly endorse Cynthia Rowley’s campaign to move apparel production to the U.S; in fact, I think a lot of industries that are outsourcing labor could follow suit. I’ll try to keep my foaming at the mouth to a minimum, as it’s a favorite rant of mine, but I’ve never understood the intense focus on illegal immigrants in the U.S. when nary a peep is heard about outsourcing labor to India, China, etc. For starters, the nature of most outsourced jobs (like tech support, production) are more along the lines of what 2nd generation and later American workers are willing to take versus the jobs that typically utilize illegal labor. Furthermore, domestic workers (be they legal or illegal) put money back into the U.S. economy, whereas an international worker will be spending money within their own local economy.
I’m not necessarily a huge advocate for government intervention in business matters, but I do think Washington could step in, if only in the case of offering monetary and tax incentives for U.S. businesses that keep labor and production domestic.