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24 July 10

Designer of the Week: Bensoni

A collaboration on a senior thesis project at Parsons and a shared aesthetic led designers Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Voon to launch Bensoni in Spring 2007. Like a 1950s screen siren, Bensoni is decidedly and assuredly feminine, with serious substance beneath the frills.

Eye It: Fall 2010





























































































All Fall 2010 photos: Style.com

Buy It: Bensoni Online







Ruffle Shoulder Blouse $89 (orig. $321)















Pleated Sheath Dress$173.75 (orig. $695)















Houndstooth T-Shirt $215 (orig. $308)














Feather Paillete Skirt $103.50 (orig. $414)















Hatch Painted Calvary Twill Skirt $73.50 (orig. $294)
















Crinkled Linen Dress $159 (orig. $550)















Confetti Flutter Blouse $215 (orig. $308)
















Gingham Voile Ruched Top $99 (orig. $330)

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30 June 10

For Me to Poop On: Cynthia Rowley Designs for Pampers

Oh, hell. From Luxist:

Fashion designers have been creating more and more inexpensive tie-ins lately but Cynthia Rowley’s latest creations are meant to be used and tossed away. The designer has collaborated with Pampers on a line of designer diapers. Pampers by Cynthia Rowley will be available in 11 colorful styles - for boys and girls - beginning in mid July 2010 at Target stores and on Target.com.

The diaper collection will be available in pastel designs including madras, stripes and printed ruffles. “As a mom, I wanted other moms and dads to have more options in every part of their lives - even diapers,” said Rowley. “It’s the first piece of clothing your baby will ever wear, and it should be special.”

Maybe I’m crazy, but I generally think that non-special things should be reserved for pooping. The only good to come of this apparent designer diaper craze is the sublimely ridiculous limited edition denim Huggies commercial.

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25 June 10
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5 May 10

The Party is Over: Gen Art Out of Business

In an email sent to members as well as a note posted on genart.org, founders Ian and Stefan Gerard announced today that Gen Art would be closing its doors, effective immediately. Facing recession-driven challenges, the hybrid nonprofit/for-profit organization cited the breakdown of a potential partnership as the ultimate cause of its demise:

During this challenging time we did everything in our power to adjust our business to these new business realities by cutting costs and seeking out alternative funding solutions. However when a major, new, corporate partnership unexpectedly collapsed a few weeks ago, we found ourselves without sufficient resources or time to overcome this sudden and substantial loss of revenue. The reality is that we had fiscally planned and relied upon the representations of this partner. Their decision had the unintended effect of pushing Gen Art over the edge. As of today we have halted all operations and had to lay off all staff.

Beyond throwing celeb-attended parties nationwide, Gen Art’s Fresh Faces in Fashion boosted the careers of then-emerging designers like Zac Posen, Philip Lim, Vena Cava, Sari Gueon, Chaiken and Rami Kashou.

Where does this leave up-and-coming designers and artists? The Gerards are somewhere between uncertain and cautiously optimistic:

We hope that where we have left off, others will step up to help fill the void.

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24 August 09
This should put a clear answer to the question I am most frequently asked, ‘Was Kenley really that awful, or was she just edited like that?’ When she got angry, I knew to keep my distance. Clearly, she needs therapy. I feel a little sorry for her that she can’t control her emotions and behavior, but on the other hand, absolutely nothing excuses physical violence and throwing a poor, defenseless kitty at someone who is sleeping. I feel bad for the cat, the bruised apples and Zak.

Leanne Marshall on cat-thrower, liberal design “borrower,” and all-around unsavory character Kenley Collins.

Via Gawker

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13 August 09

Escada Declares Bankruptcy

From AFP:

German luxury women’s fashion label Escada declared bankruptcy on Thursday, contrasting with an upbeat mood after official data showed Germany had emerged from recession in the second quarter.

The company, which counts US actress Kim Basinger among its customers and whose clothes have been advertised by supermodel Eva Herzigova, employs 2,300 people around the world including around 600 in Germany.

“Management and employees hope the group will continue to exist,” a spokesman for Escada told AFP.

“Everything will depend on what form the bankruptcy will take,” he said.

The bankruptcy filing will be examined by a judge in Munich who will then appoint an administrator for the company. Negotiations with the company’s bondholders on a restructuring deal fell through earlier this week.

Another one bites the dust.

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11 August 09
Rodarte to Design for Target’s Go International
Squeeee! And with 55 pieces! From WWD:
Designing sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy will be bringing their ethereal sensibility to a wider world when Target introduces Rodarte in December as part of its Go International series of limited collections. 
The 55-piece Rodarte line for Go International will launch at most Target stores nationwide and on target.com on Dec. 20, and will be available through Feb. 6. While it may be hard to imagine translating Rodarte’s hand-wrought designs for the mass market, Target claims to have stayed true to the spirit of the luxury-priced label.
Prices for Target’s Go International Rodarte collection will range from $9.99 for knee-highs to $79.99 for a leopard print jacket.
Rodarte, which is known for evening clothes, designed “a variety of great holiday dresses,” Thomas said. “There are stand-alone pieces and pieces that can be worn together to create an ensemble by layering different patterns, textures and prints.”
With its December debut, this will be perfect for all of us who want budget-friendly gifts for our favorite fashionistas. 
Photo credit: wweek.com

Rodarte to Design for Target’s Go International

Squeeee! And with 55 pieces! From WWD:

Designing sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy will be bringing their ethereal sensibility to a wider world when Target introduces Rodarte in December as part of its Go International series of limited collections.

The 55-piece Rodarte line for Go International will launch at most Target stores nationwide and on target.com on Dec. 20, and will be available through Feb. 6. While it may be hard to imagine translating Rodarte’s hand-wrought designs for the mass market, Target claims to have stayed true to the spirit of the luxury-priced label.

Prices for Target’s Go International Rodarte collection will range from $9.99 for knee-highs to $79.99 for a leopard print jacket.

Rodarte, which is known for evening clothes, designed “a variety of great holiday dresses,” Thomas said. “There are stand-alone pieces and pieces that can be worn together to create an ensemble by layering different patterns, textures and prints.”

With its December debut, this will be perfect for all of us who want budget-friendly gifts for our favorite fashionistas.

Photo credit: wweek.com

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10 August 09

Has Greed Killed the Fashion Industry?

From The Huffington Post:

Fashion, it seems, has gone out of fashion. Companies are reporting record losses for the first half of 2009, several are filing bankruptcy — the most high profile being the French couture house of Christian Lacroix, and fashion magazines are in a panic over the drop in ad page sales.

So Diane von Furstenberg, the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, held a summit of sorts in New York last week with leaders of the industry, including Vogue editor Anna Wintour, to rethink Fashion Week, the semi-annual trade-show-like event to present new offerings and drum up hype. Instead, the meeting turned into a strategy session to figure out how to stop plummeting sales and profits during the current economic recession.

There were several conclusions. Von Furstenberg argued that the period between the fashion shows and when the clothes reach the stores was too long and wants to reform the show system. Fashion designer Donna Karan declared that the practice of early delivery to retailers was the problem. Who wants to by a bikini in March or a mink in July? As a result, Karan said, consumers wait until sales to shop, and companies and retailers lose the huge mark-up that equals bigger profits. Wintour suggested following the French model of having a government-fixed day when retailers can start price reductions, but this was quickly shot down as price-fixing and illegal in the United States. “Is that something we can change?” asked Wintour. “We have friends in the White House now!”

Finally, von Furstenberg addressed the elephant in the room: “Everyone had been too greedy,” she said, “and everyone thought the party was forever.”

The article by Dana Thomas (the author of Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster goes on to describe the transition of the major design houses from family businesses to conglomerates, as well as the decline in production quality (but not garment prices).

A lot of her criticisms leveled at the fashion industry are fair; however, to say that greed dictates the fashion industry as a whole is inaccurate. Plenty of mom-and-pop boutiques (my own included) have gone out of business in the last two years because they simply couldn’t afford to sell things at or below cost in a sluggish economy anymore. It would seem that government legislation and stringent pricing guidelines set by showrooms and designers are necessary to both reform and keep the fashion industry afloat.

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6 August 09

Designer of the Week: Pour La Victoire

It comes as no surprise that Pour La Victoire cites Marie Antoinette as its main inspiration: the shoe line infuses ultra feminine details with a certain devil-may-care fatalism. Launched in 2007, Pour La Victoire is produced in Brazil but creatively based in New York.

Eye It: Fall/Winter 2009



















































All Fall/Winter 2009 photos: Pour La Victoire

Buy It: Pour La Victoire Online






Rene Peep Toe Platform $299.95 (orig. $313.95)















Alberta Pumps $150 (orig. $250)












Blanche Platform Sandals $150 (orig. $250)














Ynes Peep Toe Mary Jane $209.95















Stud Peep Toe Ankle Boot $228
















Bijan Knotted Flat Sandals $124.60 (orig. $178)
















Ella Zip Ruffle Flat Sandals $157.50 (orig. $225)
















Lea Booties $145 (orig. $253.95)

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Posted: 11:19 AM
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